Steffi and I are hunting for aurora borealis up here in the north of Norway. Conditions seemed perfect when we started planning this trip a couple of weeks ago: lots of activity reported and clear skies almost all January and February. Now we get here at a time when the sky should be clearest and see nothing but overcast and lots and lots of rain. As unfortunate as it sounds, it's still a very charming place to visit. We still have a couple of days, so not all hopes for seeing the lights have been given up yet.